The Tea House

The second experience was much more pleasant, at the junction of Rising Phoenix Road and the North Section of National Reconstruction Road, stood a building that combined three businesses displayed in neon Chinese characters across the roof line.

One was the very smokey and unpleasant Internet gaming room (where hacking and spitting are considered normal), the other was some kind of casino which we didn't visit and finally there was the Tea House.

We entered the Tea House via the lift and were greeted by six young women dressed in pretty silk Qipao lined up on each side of the entrance way, who shouted excitedly in unison "Huan Ying Guan Lin" (which means something like "Welcome you to come in and take a look"). This actually made my wife laugh out loud, not because they said anything funny, but because, as she later told me, she couldn't believe that they employ six people just to greet people into the restaurant. We had noticed already that Chinese stores and restaurants seem to employ two or three times the amount of staff than you may see in London or Taichung. I guess this is a reflection on how cheap labour still is in China.

Anyway, we were shown to the table and we sat down in what was now proving to be quite a pleasant environment. The Tea House was decorated in a modern design, but still capturing the essence of a traditional Chinese garden tea house-that is with bridge like structures between sections, water, pebbles and bamboo used to compliment and enhance the atmosphere.

The most interesting feature for me was the small shrine, on the walkway to the buffet area, complete with three large statues of glistening painted porcelain gods looking more gruesome that endearing, fruit offerings, music and burning incense. All these features have been installed to create and authentic atmosphere, much like the the themed pubs we have in the UK, I guess.

As we sat down and made ourselves comfortable the tea heater was placed at the side of our table, and clear glass tea pot placed on top. We ordered a local tea grown in the hills around the lake, which was actually the most amazing tea that I've ever tasted. The tea actually changes flavour as you drink, it is difficult to describe, but when you first sip it has a slightly bitter woody taste and then moments later it turns to a sweet almost honey flavour in you mouth, quite extraordinary!!

The eats were also very enjoyable and matched the tea very well in flavour and style. I could spend much time describing each one, but for those that have eaten Dim Sum, you will understand a little, but I have to say it was much better than any Dim Sum I have tasted before.

We sat for an hour or so and indulged ourselves, we then paid the bill and ventured out again into the cold, misty darkness taking the most direct route back to the hotel.

These are the stark contrasts that make up life in modern China, in the same that you'll see glistening glass towers juxtaposed against old slum housing, or you will see the slick new Mercedes manoeuvre its way around the old guy pushing hard to make his creaking and rusting old bike move away from the lights; you can find the best and the worst eating experiences just a few doors from each other.

This is something that people living in China have to learn to live with and it doesn't look like it will get better anytime soon.